How to Build a Poker Bankroll That Survives Variance
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How to Build a Poker Bankroll That Survives Variance
You know the feeling. Three weeks of solid play. You're making the right decisions, reading the table well, finding spots. Then it starts. A bad beat here, a cooler there. Nothing changes about your game, but the results do. Three weeks becomes four, then five. You're down 10 buy-ins, then 15. The doubt creeps in. Maybe you're not as good as you thought. Maybe you're running bad. Maybe both.
You've seen it happen to other players. The guy who was crushing 2/5 last month is now grinding 1/2. The regular who always had a stack in front of him is asking for markers. They didn't suddenly forget how to play. They just didn't have enough behind them when variance showed up.
This is why poker bankroll management exists. The math is clear: if you play long enough, you will face downswings that test everything you think you know about your game. Your bankroll is what stands between you and going broke when that happens.
What Bankroll Management Actually Means
Most players think bankroll management means "don't play above your means." That's part of it, but it misses the point. Poker bankroll management isn't about budgeting. It's about risk management.
Your bankroll is your protection against variance. It's the money you've set aside specifically for poker, separate from your living expenses, your bills, your emergency fund. When you lose, and you will lose, even when you play well, your bankroll absorbs the hit. If your bankroll is too small relative to the stakes you're playing, one bad month can wipe you out.
Think of it this way: if you have $2,000 and you're playing $1/$2 no-limit, you're one bad session away from being done. If you have $6,000, you can weather a downswing. If you have $10,000, you can handle a serious run of bad cards. The game doesn't change. Your skill doesn't change. But your ability to survive the inevitable swings does.
This is especially true for live poker bankroll management. Live games move slower. You see fewer hands per hour. A downswing that might resolve in a week online can stretch for a month in live play. Your bankroll needs to account for that.
The goal isn't to optimize your win rate. It's to ensure you're still playing when the cards turn around. Players who understand this last. Players who don't, don't.
Understanding Variance
You can play well and still lose for weeks. This isn't a theory. It's something you've experienced or watched happen to someone at your table.
Variance is the reason a winning player can lose 20 buy-ins in a month. It's the reason you can make all the right decisions and still end a session down. The math exists, but you don't need to calculate it to understand it. You just need to recognize that short-term results don't tell the story.
Here's what you need to know: a 10 buy-in downswing at $1/$2 no-limit is normal. You've seen it happen. A player who's been winning consistently goes on a run where nothing works. They get their money in good and lose. They make the right call and get outdrawn. They fold correctly and watch someone else stack off with the hand they folded.
This doesn't mean they're a bad player. It means variance is real, and it doesn't care about your skill level.
The same thing happens in reverse. You've watched players who clearly don't know what they're doing run hot for weeks. They're making terrible calls, playing every hand, and somehow winning. Then it stops. The cards turn, and they're gone.
Short-term results are noise. Long-term results are signal. The problem is that you have to survive the short term to reach the long term. That's what your bankroll is for.
If you want to understand the deeper math behind variance, you can dive into Wikipedia's entry on variance or read discussions on poker forums about downswings and poker variance. But you don't need to. You just need to accept that it exists, that it will happen to you, and that your bankroll needs to be big enough to handle it.
Bankroll Rules for Cash Games
For live cash games, the standard recommendation is 20 to 30 buy-ins. If you're playing $1/$2 no-limit with a $200 buy-in, that means $4,000 to $6,000. If you're playing $2/$5 with a $500 buy-in, that's $10,000 to $15,000.
These numbers exist for a reason. This is what prevents you from going broke during normal swings. A 10 buy-in downswing at $1/$2 means you're down $2,000. If your bankroll is $6,000, you're still fine. You can keep playing. If your bankroll is $2,000, you're done.
Players who follow this tend to last. Players who don't, don't.
The exact number depends on a few things. If you're a strong winning player, you might be comfortable with 20 buy-ins. If you're still learning or playing tougher games, you might want 30 or even 40. The key is understanding that this isn't about being conservative. It's about giving yourself enough room to survive the swings that will definitely happen.
For bankroll management in live cash games, the slower pace matters. Online players might see 100 hands an hour. Live players see 25 to 30. A downswing that resolves quickly online can drag on for weeks live. Your bankroll needs to account for that slower resolution time.
Tournament players need different bankroll rules, which we'll cover next. But for cash games, 20 to 30 buy-ins is the baseline. It's not exciting. It's not going to make you rich quickly. But it will keep you in the game long enough for your skill edge to matter.
Bankroll Rules for Tournaments
Tournaments require a larger bankroll than cash games. The standard recommendation is 50 to 100 buy-ins for your bankroll for poker tournaments.
This seems like a lot until you think about how tournaments work. In a cash game, you can reload. If you lose a buy-in, you can buy back in and keep playing. In a tournament, if you bust, you're done. You can't reload. You have to wait for the next tournament.
Tournament variance is also higher. You can play perfectly and still go 20 tournaments without a cash. You can make the final table and still finish ninth. The payouts are top-heavy, which means most of your results will be zero, and the occasional big score has to make up for all those zeros.
If you're playing $100 tournaments, you need $5,000 to $10,000. If you're playing $500 tournaments, you need $25,000 to $50,000. This isn't about being overly cautious. It's about recognizing that tournament poker has more variance than cash games, and you need a bigger cushion to handle it.
Some players use a sliding scale. They might have 50 buy-ins for smaller tournaments and 100 buy-ins for larger ones. The key is understanding that tournaments are higher variance, and your bankroll needs to reflect that.
You can find more detailed discussions about tournament bankroll requirements on poker strategy forums, but the principle is simple: tournaments need more buy-ins because you can't reload and the variance is higher. Plan accordingly.
Common Mistakes and Misconceptions
Most bankroll problems come from a few predictable mistakes. You've seen them. You might have made them yourself.
The first is playing too high relative to your bankroll. You have $3,000, so you decide to take a shot at $2/$5. You're a good player, you tell yourself. You can handle it. Maybe you can, but your bankroll can't. One bad session and you're down to $2,000. Now you're playing scared, or you're moving back down, or you're reloading from your own pocket.
The second is moving up stakes after a hot streak. You've been crushing $1/$2 for a month. You're up $3,000. You decide you're ready for $2/$5. The problem is that $3,000 hot streak doesn't change your skill level, and it doesn't change the variance you'll face at higher stakes. You're just as likely to hit a downswing at $2/$5 as you were at $1/$2, but now it costs twice as much.
The third is treating your bankroll as disposable income. You win $500, so you spend it. You lose $500, so you reload from your checking account. Your bankroll never grows. You're always one bad month away from being done. This isn't bankroll management. This is just gambling with whatever money you happen to have.
The fourth is the "I'll just reload" mentality. You know you should have 20 buy-ins, but you only have 10. You'll be fine, you think. If you lose, you'll just add more money. The problem is that this defeats the purpose. Your bankroll is supposed to protect you from having to reload. If you're planning to reload, you're not managing your bankroll. You're just playing with whatever you can afford to lose, which is different.
A solid poker bankroll strategy recognizes that these mistakes are tempting because they let you play higher or play more. But they also increase your risk of going broke. The players who last are the ones who resist these temptations.
Building a Bankroll from Scratch
If you're starting from zero, building a bankroll takes time. There's no way around it.
The first step is separating your poker money from everything else. This isn't money you need for rent. This isn't money you're saving for a vacation. This is money you've set aside specifically for poker. If you can't afford to lose it, it's not part of your bankroll.
The second step is starting at stakes where you can build. If you have $1,000, you're playing $1/$2, not $2/$5. You need to win enough to move up, not just survive. This means playing well and running well, which takes time.
The third step is being realistic about timelines. If you're a winning player at $1/$2, you might win $10 to $15 an hour on average. To build from $2,000 to $6,000, you need to win $4,000. At $12 an hour, that's 333 hours of play. If you play 10 hours a week, that's 33 weeks. More than half a year.
This is the grind. It's not exciting. It's not get-rich-quick. But it's how you build a bankroll that can actually support you at higher stakes.
Some players use a poker bankroll calculator to track their progress and determine when they have enough to move up. These tools can help, but the principle is simple: you need enough buy-ins at your current level before you can safely move to the next one. The calculators just do the math for you.
The players who build bankrolls are the ones who accept that it takes time. They don't take shots they can't afford. They don't move up after one good month. They grind, they build, and they move up when they actually have enough behind them.
The Long Game
Serious players invest in quality gear that lasts. Just like a bankroll, your session gear should be built for the long run.
You've seen the difference. The player who shows up with a hat that's been through hundreds of sessions versus the one who's always buying new gear. The player whose setup is consistent, reliable, part of their routine. The one who doesn't have to think about their gear because it just works.
A well-made hat becomes part of your routine. A small constant in a game of variance. When everything else is unpredictable: the cards, the results, the swings; your gear is something you can control. It's the same hat, the same preparation, the same mindset.
This isn't about superstition. It's about recognizing that the players who last are the ones who think long-term. About their game, about their bankroll, about their gear. They invest in things that hold up, not things that need replacing.
Your bankroll is an investment in your ability to keep playing. Your gear is an investment in your ability to keep playing well. Both require thinking beyond the next session.
Conclusion
Poker bankroll management isn't exciting. It's not going to make you rich quickly. It's not going to give you an edge at the table.
What it will do is keep you in the game long enough for your skill to matter. It will let you survive the downswings that will definitely happen. It will give you the room to make decisions based on what's correct, not what you can afford to lose.
The players who last understand this. They accept that bankroll management is about survival, not optimization. They play within their means, they build slowly, and they don't take shots they can't afford.
The players who don't last are the ones who think they're the exception. They're good enough to play higher. They're running too well to worry about bankroll. They'll just reload if they need to.
You've seen both types. You know which ones are still playing.
Bankroll management is the most boring part of poker. It's also the most important. Without it, everything else is just gambling. With it, you give yourself a chance to let your skill edge play out over time.
That's the goal. Not to get rich quick. Not to play the highest stakes possible. Just to last long enough for variance to even out and skill to matter. It's not glamorous. But it works.